Khajuraho,
the temple city of central India, is famous throughout the world for its
exquisitely carved temples in stones. Thousands of visitors and tourists from
all over the world flock together to envisage this immortal saga of Hindu art
and culture engraved in stone by shilpies (stone craftsmen) a millenia ago.
Today, apart from the temples, Khajuraho is a small village but a thousand years
ago it was a large city of the Chandelas, medieval Rajput kings who ruled over
Central India. Khajuraho is 595 km (370 miles) south-east of Delhi and can be
visited by air, rail or road. An overnight train journey from Delhi takes the
visitor to Jhansi, from where another morning train takes him to Harpalpur 85
km (53 miles) to the east.
According to the account of the medieval court poet, Chandbardai, in the Mahoba-khand
of his Prithviraj Raso, Hemvati was the beautiful daughter of Hemraj, the royal
priest of Kashi (Varanasi). One summer night, while she was bathing in the sparkling
waters of a lotus-filled pond, the Moon god was so awestruck by her beauty that
he descended to earth in human form and ravished her. The distressed Hemvati,
who was unfortunately a child widow, threatened to curse the god for ruining
her life and reputation. To make amends for his folly the Moon god promised
that she would become the mother of a valiant son.
'Take
him to Khajjurpura', he is believed to have said. 'He will be a great king and
build numerous temples surrounded by lakes and gardens. He will also perform
a yagya (religious ceremony) through which your sin will be washed away.' Following
his instructions, Hemvati left her home to give birth to her son in a tiny village.
The child, Chandravarman, was as lustrous as his father, brave and strong. By
the time he was 16 years old he could kill tigers or lions with his bare hands.
Delighted by his feats, Hemvati invoked the Moon god, who presented their son
with a touchstone which could turn iron into gold, and installed him as king
at Khajuraho.
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